4 Months in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico

Saturday 10 July 2010

Things we'll miss and things we won't!!

With only a few days left to go of our Mexican adventure, we all decided we would come up with a list of things we would miss about Mexico and things we would NOT miss. Everyone came up with a few including Owen. We then added a list of things people can't wait to get back to in VT. Here we go...

Things we'll miss:
  • Really good gelato ice cream (cheap too)
  • Bakery treats (cheap also)
  • Waterparks and hotsprings
  • Gringas and local taco stands
  • Manzana and toronja soda
  • Tamale, mole, and atole woman
  • Tortillan sandwiches
  • La Burger (steaks and burgers)
  • Cheap taxis
  • Walking everywhere
  • Library with cafe
  • Parroquia Church
  • Tuesday Market
  • Cheap beer
  • Great salsa dancing lessons
  • Micheladas, wings, and World Cup Soccer at Gozo's Bar
  • Celebrations, fiestas, and castillos
  • Haircuts ranging from 15 - 40 pesos (about $1.30 to $3.50)
  • Creative artisans
  • Tiendas right next door 
  • Our new friends that we made here in Mexico
  • Freshly squeezed juices
  • Incredible guacamole and hot sauces
  • Our dollar stretching so far

Things we won't miss:
  • Dog poop on the side walks
  • Garbage on the streets
  • Fireworks early in the morning
  • Our neighbor's band that plays Sunday and Thursday nights
  • Not being able drink the tap water
  • Pesky flies
  • Cobblestone streets 
  • Beggars
  • Scorpions and cockroaches (especially in our bedrooms)
  • Putting sunblock on every day followed by heavy dosages of lotion at night
  • Cracked heels from walking so much
  • Bad chocolate milk

Things in VT that we can't wait for....
  • Family and friends and our pets
  • Trampoline
  • Good bagels
  • Our grill
  • Root beer
  • Bike riding and the bike path
  • Swimming, kayaking, and sailing on Lake Champlain
  • Church Street
  • Quiet
  • English speakers
  • Wii and our toys

Monday 5 July 2010

4th of July in San Miguel

Funny how today of all days we did NOT get woken up by loud firecrackers! You'd think someone out there would set them off just for the heck of it. We are missing the annual fireworks down at the waterfront today and our thoughts are turning towards our trip back home.

Luckily, this weekend was a craft's fair at the Instituto that kids have been looking forward to. It was there when we first arrived in San Miguel, but we didn't buy too much since we had just arrived. The kids waited all this time for it to return as they had their eye on a few items. I took Hannah and Alex today (Owen had his turn yesterday and bought a small painted dragon), and they went straight to the vendors that they had remembered. Very cute. Alex bought a beaded jaguar head and Hannah a beaded mask. The Mexicans glue these small beads to bowls, animals, masks, etc. and make extremely intricate patterns with the beads. Hannah also purchased an obsidian rock that turned colors in the light, while Alex bought a small porcupine from Oaxaca.

After our successful shopping at the crafts fair, we headed over to a nearby hotel where the Democratic Party for Expats was hosting a 4th of July barbecue. We decided we needed an afternoon of good, old American fun. The weather wasn't too great...cloudy, cool, and threat of rain...but we all had fun nevertheless. The buffet of hot dogs, hamburgers, coleslaw, potato salad, french fries, brownies, and carrot cake was delicious and enjoyed by all. Kids even went swimming in the pool although came out a bit quickly as it was chilly. We also met a few other American families who had just arrived so the kids were happy to play with their new friends. The party ended at 5:00 pm, so no fireworks for us though. Too bad, although I've probably had enough fireworks during our 4 months here in Mexico to last me until at least next year!

We have had a bit of rain lately and it is much cooler. I'm glad Lindsay and Joerg still had great weather when they were here because since then we haven't seen much of the sun. Much of this is due to Hurricane Alex so hopefully when that clears out the weather will be back to normal. We'd like some sun for our last week here!

Tuesday 29 June 2010

Amazing Hot Air Balloon Ride

Hannah is writing this post this time because she and Alex were the only ones who got to experience this amazing trip. Here she is..

On Tuesday June 29 Alex and I went on a hot air balloon with our classes from school! We had to get up at 6:00 in the morning. We had a great man named Jay that took us. We got to help blow up the balloon and it was really hard work. Once the balloon was up Jay told us all to get in the basket and we started moving and everyone got a little freaked out because we thought that we were tipping over because the basket was starting to tip. All of his "partners" were trying to hold down the balloon but once they let it go we were already going up into the air!

When we got in the air it was a sight that was amazing!! It felt like you were seeing the world from a different way, and it felt amazing to be able to see it that way!! I felt so different being up there. It changes you because you start to see what other people have and you can compare that to things that you have and some of the places are really pretty and you wish that you had that but then you will see places that look like they might fall apart because you were looking at it. Then you will start to rethink about that other place that  you wanted so badly because some people look at the house you have and they wish that they had what you have. I just think that it makes you appreciate what you have and not what you want.

We were in the air for about 45 minutes and it was a blast and also being with people that you like. I took so many pictures because I want to remember this, and I also took pictures of my friends so I will remember that experience to.

Being up in the air in an open space is a really great feeling because you feel like you are flying because there's nothing on the sides of the basket and the wind on your face. Iit just feels great to be able to see something as if you were a different being. I had a blast on this trip and I definitely will never forget this and it has changed my view of life forever!

We have lift off!!!





















View of the Parroquia in the center of San Miguel.








The town of San Miguel de Allende.














The landscape all around.















This picture shows the mountains in the distance.














One more landscape view...











Packing up the hot air balloon after a wonderful ride.










Friends having fun in the van ride back to school.

















People start getting funny.










And the giggling and fun continue!










Back at school, we make thank you cards and watercolor pictures of our hot air balloon experience. Amazing!

Saturday 26 June 2010

Atotonilco and Mexican Folk Art Gallery

Today we rented a car as Lindsay, Joerg, Hannah, and I hadn't yet visited the church at Atontonilco. Charles and his parents raved about this church and Mom had read about it in a guide book and said it was a "must see." So...with all those recommendations we were eager to go.

Picture: Hannah, Lindsay, and me and the next few pictures are of the Gallery.

We dropped off Charles and the boys at Xote (the waterpark) and rest of us headed off. We had also made an appointment at Galeria Atotonilco which I had read about as having a wonderful collection of Mexican Folk Art from all around Mexico (you had to make an appointment to visit it as it is not always open). Since we were a little early for our visit to the Gallery we stopped at a place called Nirvana, which used to be a popular restaurant in downtown. I had just read about the restaurant moving from centro out to the country and changing over to a retreat center/hotel/restaurant. We were all hungry (as usual) so we stopped in there and had a lovely lunch overlooking beautiful gardens. It was completely quiet (unlike our city living) and it was really enjoyable. I enjoyed a delicious seafood curry soup, although couldn't quite stomach the octopus in the soup. Hannah was a bit grossed out when I pulled the tentacles out...Lindsay and Joerg who don't like seafood weren't too excited either! Ha..

After that we went to the Gallery and spent the next 3 hours there. It was amazing. The Gallery was filled with wonderful pieces of art and was such a delight to visit. In addition, the gallery was part of the man's house which was a showcase. Truly...this house has been featured in Architectural Magazines all over the world. The house had incredible water fountains everywhere and a water system that ran and recycled all the water to all the waterfalls and fountains. It was also filled with Mexican art everywhere, so it was a real feast for the senses. Amazing!

I splurged and bought a hand-painted plate depicting the Day of the Dead. Lindsay and Joerg also bought a beautiful plate and a hand carved wooden jewelry box. The things were stunning there.


Then we were off to the church at Atotonilco which was only about a 5 minute drive down the road. We hit upon a HUGE festival right near the church and the place was packed with vendor stands and girls dressed in beautiful white dresses. We parked on the street and for a while didn't think we were going to get in the church. I finally worked my way through the crowd only to find the church almost empty save a Spanish tour going on!! I guess it pays to be pushy. Everyone was waiting for the festivities to begin so we were able to see the wonderful frescos and scenes inside the church. It was truly stunning. This church is on the "endangered" list of churches since the Mexicans don't have enough money to restore the church. We are hoping that this masterpiece is maintained as it is really amazing. We didn't have too long in the church which was too bad as then some of the girls in white dresses started coming in along with their families.


We learned that this was a quinceanera which is a 15 year old rite of passage for girls here in Mexico. They enter the church as girls and leave as women. Girls wear flats when they enter the church and leave in high heels. Afterwards they have a huge party which is equal in scale to a wedding: food, dancing, drinks, and fun for all. This was a huge day at the church and we couldn't believe the crowds. We felt lucky that we made it into the church before this event started or we would never have seen it all.

After this great day, we went back to the water park and picked up the boys who had a grand time all day swimming. We then stopped at "La Burger" (don't you just love the name?) which was recommended to us by some friends. You literally pull off of the highway to this little place and it is really cute. We had huge burgers and steaks cooked over a wood fire and a few beers.

A simply perfect day in Mexico!






This was the largest Oaxaca piece I have ever seen!































This was the only picture of the Church at Atotonilco that I took as the crowds were too much.

Thursday 24 June 2010

Hannah's School Play

Today Hannah performed in "Jason and the Argonauts" at her school. She played 3 different roles: Medea, Hera, and an old lady. Charles and I were so impressed since many of her lines she performed in Spanish. Her first monologue was quite long and the Spanish just whipped out of her mouth. We were so amazed! I guess she has been learning the language better than we realized.

In this picture, Hannah is under the veil playing her old lady role.

The class designed all the costumes and the set which is one of the great aspects about the Waldorf school here. I think our schools at home could use a bit more creativity in their curriculum. The play was performed at a beautiful house on the school property and you'll be able to see from the pictures what a lovely setting this was.  Go Hannah and her classmates on a job well done!



 Hannah and Adrian (who played Jason).
















Classmates of Hannah. Two of the girls, Sol and Camilla, were at Hannah's birthday party.









Hannah playing Hera with Jason kneeling at her feet.













The 4th graders also got to play a few minor roles. Alex ended up being turned into a rabbit.











Hannah takes her bow.













The entire cast along with their teacher, Cesar.

Tuesday 22 June 2010

Owen loses his first tooth!

Today Owen lost his first tooth! He worked and worked on it during school and then for an additional  hour after school...until the tooth was in his hand. He was so excited. We then had a long discussion if the tooth fairy would bring pesos or dollars. It is quite funny having a currency discussion with a 5 year old. In the end, I realized all he really wanted was a "bill"...he could care less whether it was Mexican or American money. He has only ever collected coins, so a bill was a bit deal. Luckily, the crafty tooth fairy could still come up with an American dollar bill!

Saturday 19 June 2010

Family Birthday Party and Lindsay and Joerg arrive!

Hannah was so excited that Lindsay and Joerg were arriving on her birthday...a very special birthday treat. As another treat, we decided to visit the local tattoo parlor. Ha! Yes, we did go, but only for henna. Hannah, her friend Sol, Alex, and I went and had a ball. We looked through tons of books and then everyone got to choose something. Hannah chose a dolphin for her ankle, Sol chose words in Chinese, Alex a dragon for his arm, and I chose a pattern for my feet. We took pictures of our "tattooed" bodies and I'll put them on the blog.


After that, we met friends at a local hotel for a swim. Hannah had to say goodbye to a good friend, Gracie, which made her a little sad. Gracie had lived here for a year and was heading back home to the States with her family. Hopefully, they will see each other again.


We also had a family birthday party after Lindsay and Joerg arrived. Hannah ordered up steak, potatoes and onions, and honey carrots. We were pleased to oblige. We saved the cake for this night and then she got to open a few more presents. We all had a totally great day and were thrilled to have more visitors arrive for the week!


Here are some pictures from the party. Hannah gets a new dress from us.






Hannah is reading a funny card created by Alex.

















Lindsay and Joerg give Hannah a funny book about popularity. Good reading for people of all ages.











Lindsay reading the card that Owen made for Hannah.










Proud Dad with Hannah showcasing her new dress.














The Happy Birthday song. Yes, Owen is already in his pajamas!













The Birthday wish...








Our henna...don't we look cool?

Friday 18 June 2010

Hannah's 13th Birthday Party

Hannah's 13th Birthday...I can't believe we have a teenager in the house! Her big gift from us was getting her ears pierced which we did before we left for Mexico. We bought her a few other small presents, but her other large present is to go to the Justin Bieber concert at the Champlain Valley fair. How's that for a typical teenage gift? Ha!

For her birthday, she wanted a party with her friends. She invited Camila, Sol, and Gracie over and was so excited to have a "Mexican birthday party." As is traditional, there of course was a pinata. Owen had fun picking it out although I did have to explain that no, Hannah would not like a life-size Spider Man pinata! He ended up picking out a cute bunny rabbit and Hannah thought it was adorable. We decided to whack the pinata during the first part of the party since we were going out to a Chinese restaurant (Hannah's choice) for dinner and it might be too late when we came home. The kids had a great time taking turns and singing the traditional Mexican pinata song (which we don't know, but the other girls at the party sang for us). Just as the pinata was breaking, a storm rolled in and it started raining. Everyone madly scooped up the candy and we hurried indoors. Whew!

It rained and poured, and the cracks of thunder were enormous. These tropical storms are unlike those back in VT. We lost power several times which made the 4 girls scream in extremely high pitched voices. How old are these kids??? Girls will be girls. Anyway, we waited and waited for the rain to let up but realized our walking trip to the restaurant was not going to happen as planned. Luckily, they do take-out so we placed our order and the food was delivered in a short while to our door. Everyone chowed and then the girls had a sleepover.

All in all, I'd say Hannah had a great time and will remember this birthday here in Mexico.












I forgot to mention all the goofy games the girls played. Here's a picture of a game called chins. You draw faces on your chin and then go upside and talk. All of them had marker on their faces and played this game for awhile...no alcohol was involved I promise!

Sunday 13 June 2010

Dia del Locos: Sunday Part 2

Surprise, surprise...fireworks again at 6 am followed by the intense church bells. Another day, another party!

The day starts with a mass at the church. We skipped this part in a favor of a nice Sunday breakfast of crepes. We were conserving our strength for the long day ahead....

Here is a picture of Charles, Alex, and Owen ready for the parade.

Today is the Los Locos parade. The parade of "locos" consists of people from various neighborhoods, businesses and families who don elaborate and colorful costumes that range from political characters and animals to birds and cross-dressing men. People of all ages participated and the costumes and floats were just fabulous. You can't imagine the number of people. There were thousands upon thousands. The entire shindig started at the San Antonio church so from waking up we were right in the midst of the action.

Alex is doing a jig before the parade in his funny mask.
Alex and Owen were totally excited for this day as we had bought masks a few days early so that they could march in this parade. Pretty fitting isn't it since we have crazy kids! Each boy chose the perfect mask...Alex's was a goofy Mario character with a huge nose. Owen's was a devil with a smiley face. So totally funny. We realized that in order to march in the parade everyone had to wear a mask, so Charles ran out that morning and chose a mask for himself. He was the Dad devil and had a great big mask with horns.

When the parade started the streets were just lined with participants and spectators galore. Parade participants threw an inordinate amount of candy and we found that we had to be on the look out for random pieces of candy that would just hit you on the head. Many of the Mexicans held umbrellas upside down in order to catch all the candy that was thrown there way, which I thought was pretty funny. The parade starts at the San Antonio church and works its way up Zacateros, Hernández Macías, Insurgentes, Aparicio, Nuñez and down San Francisco to end in the the Jardín. Of course, then everyone eventually winds their way back to the San Antonio church to continue dancing and then for the fireworks tonight.

We were lucky that we knew someone who owned a bar right on the Ancho San Antonio which was part of the parade route. He opened up his second floor for a small group of us so we got to watch a lot of the action and be out of the sun. Our boys danced in the parade for a while and then made use of the bar for shade and a cold drink (water and soda for them of course). The parade was an incredible 2 hours long...yes, non-stop action and activity.

We all went home after the parade and rested for a bit, then went out for dinner and came home to tuck Owen into bed. He was just too tuckered out to make it to the fireworks which was just as well since he had school the next day. He went right to sleep, we shut all the windows, put on the noisemaker, and the rest of the gang headed out the door for the evening's festivities.

Instead of one tower of fireworks, tonight's had 3! It was incredible. Again, another live band and a million food vendors. This was such an amazing display of fireworks and sparklers. In addition to the 3 towers, they had regular, huge fireworks overhead (the kind we see in the US). The fireworks started at about 10 pm and when they were almost done we headed to our rooftop deck to watch the rest. The fireworks were truly right above our heads and at times we had to run for cover under the roof on our deck so the ash wouldn't hit us. It was a night and a day to remember!









Pictures of some of our favorite costumes...
Superheroes.....
















We think he was supposed to be Shrek and the donkey.

















More characters from Shrek. There was a large group of them!



















The Day of the Dead costumes.








Our children with their friends front and center of the parade route. This is after Alex got tired and hopped out of the parade. You can see Alex with his hand out for "dulces".











Do you see Charles, aka the Devil, waving? Owen is hidden from view amidst all those people but he is marching in the parade as well.



Charles is holding Owen for the picture. I'm way up high on the balcony of the bar taking the pictures!













In this picture you can see all the Mexicans holding out their umbrellas to catch the dulces!

















Hannah and her friend Gracie wave to me from the front lines.



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The bar scene on the balcony above the parade. Some semblance of space and cold drinks!












The boy scene after they got tired of being in the parade.












Devil squared!

















Action shot. The devil attacks!